This is the text from the journal that I kept during a cross-country bicycle trip in the summer of 1996.

I carried a notebook computer with me, and e-mailed my journal to friends and family as I went along. The internet was relatively new to the general public at the time, so it was an adventure trying to find a connection. This was a great way to let people know how we were doing. I did the first half of the trip (Oregon-North Dakota) solo, and my girlfriend (now wife), Danielle, joined me for the second half of the trip.

If you are contemplating a similar trip, and have questions, I would be glad to answer them by e-mail - roadrunnerecuador@yahoo.com

Total trip statistics and "lessons learned" are at the end of the journal.

Day 1 - Heed the Book
Every bicycle touring book I had read suggested that one disassemble and box his bicycle during the day before his flight, in order to avoid a possibly sleepless night. Choosing to ignore this advice, my intrepid partner Danielle and I begin this procedure at 9 PM the night before my 6:35 AM flight to Portland. We are able to, with much sweating and gnashing of teeth, take most of the bike apart by 11 PM. Alas, the pedals remain and we lack the proper wrench to remove them. Also the logistics of fitting all those bike parts into that little box is daunting. More gnashing of teeth and general discontent as the clock nears midnight and the chance of a decent night’s sleep slowly evaporates. Finally, a decision is made. I will postpone the flight until 4 PM the next day, and have Danny’s Cyclery pack the box. So much for a self-sufficient trip.

*Quote of the Day: Two things guaranteed to ruin a trip are dysentery and bad traveling companions, and I frankly prefer the former, because dysentery at least ensures some quality private time.*

Day 2 - A Reacquaintance
Upon the opening of Danny’s at 10 AM, I ask the mechanic if he can box my bike by 2 PM as I have a flight at 4 PM. This request on July 4th no less. He says, "Cutting it a little close, aren’t you?" Yep. He does it.

I am met at the airport by old Peace Corps friends, John and Christine Fuller. Despite my having only called them the day of my flight, they kindly offer to put me up in their Portland home as long as I am in town. Wonderful people with a shared affinity for the good old Grateful Dead. They have escaped the New York City metropolis area (they grew up in Long Island and spent a year there after Peace Corps) for the laid-back and close to nature setting of Portland, OR. Never once have they regretted the decision.

We adjourn directly to a downtown brewpub for dinner and a few of Portland’s famous micro-brewed ales, porters, and stouts. The local micro-brewery phenomenon in Portland seems reason enough alone to live here. Catching up on the status of mutual friends, we enjoy the riverfront fireworks and checking out the local grunge kids.

A relatively early evening as I must put my bicycle together and go to the coast tomorrow.

Day 3 - I Think I Can, I Think I Can
Route: John and Christine Fuller’s House in Beaverton, OR to Cape Lookout State Park, OR

Total time pedalling: 6:48
Total Miles: 80.7
Miles Per Hour:11.8
Maximum Speed: 28.3
Miles to Date: 80.7

The day begins at 7:30 AM. An atypical bright, beautiful Portand morning. Portland lives up to its rainy reputation generally, but the forecast for the next few days calls for dry 80 degree heat. Great weather for cycling.

Putting the bike back together. A slightly easier task than taking it apart, but one which still takes me three hours to complete. I do learn a great deal about the bicycle in the process. This should help me along the way, I tell myself through the inevitable cursing and gnashing of teeth.
Finally I am on the road, with fully loaded panniers by 12:45 PM.

Today’s route takes me out the western suburbs of Portland through three or four anonymous suburbs into rolling farmland. Once the suburbs end, I stop at almost every country store as they are few and far between. Buy stock now in Gatorade. Portland is growing inexorably toward the Coast range that I will summit today, and eventually this land will probably have housing developments on it. A pity, for the silence, smell of manure and bright sunshine instills a distinctly peaceful feeling after the carbon monoxide and McDonalds of the suburbs I have left behind. [I found out later that Portland has strict development laws that will prevent these lands from becoming suburbs]

The hill begins just after the "Next Gas 40 miles" sign. Since I am going from Portland (elevation 77 feet) to the coast over the Coast mountain range there will be a long climb of 1500 feet followed by a corresponding downhill. Unfortunately the climb is much shorter and steeper than the downhill so I struggle at 4 MPH a bit. Not the ride one would hope for on the first day, but good practice for upcoming, harder efforts. A "good hill" in the bicyclists’ parlance. Meaning, of course, a bad hill.

I take the obligatory picture of the sign at the summit and begin the 30-mile descent. Loaded with panniers, I am much less confident on the downhill than when I have gone down hills unloaded. I have the "wobblies" which are a moderate instability in the front steering apparatus common to cyclists travelling with loaded panniers. The idea is to get the panniers evenly weighted on each side, with somewhat more weight in the rear bags. The process is, according to one book, "as much art as science."

I reach Tillamook, some 12 miles shy of Cape Lookout with darkness descending. Fortunately, it is light out here until about 9:30, so I make a quick stop for food and arrive at Cape Lookout just as the sun goes down over the Pacific. I devour three chicken breasts, set up the tent and fall asleep a bit sore and very exhausted.

Day 4 - Always Ask the Locals
Today’s Route: Cape Lookout State Park south to Sand Lake Point Store then back to Cape Lookout

Total Time Pedaling: 2:11
Total Miles: 22.1
Miles per Hour: 10.1
Max Speed: 29.0
Total Miles to Date: 102.8

Today is supposed to be a rest day. A day to enjoy the sights and sounds of Cape Lookout State Park, perhaps with a hike to Anderson Point to get the panoramic view of the glorious beach which, along with the almost rain forest atmosphere ashore, makes this a recommended spot to any reader who ever happens to be in this area. Alas, my rest day turns out to be something less than rejuvenating.

The day begins late, as I rest peacefully for ten or so hours after the long journey over the mountain. I’m hungry, again. Let me tell you that a 50ish veteran bicycle touring nut, Steve, whom I met later in the day told me that he ate at every possible moment during a cross-country trip he took a few years ago and still lost fifteen pounds. Seven hours on a bike translates to about 6500 calories expended. The bicycle tourer (is this the right term? Bicycle tourist doesn’t sound right) eats a large meal, but does not feel full. Steve claims he did not feel full the whole trip, even on off-days.

So I’m off to Wee Willie’s three miles down the road for breakfast. Which turns out be fish and chips, not exactly what I had in mind, but they don’t serve breakfast. Three fishsticks (and here right by the ocean no less) and a few fries doesn’t cut it so I’m off to the grocery store to get something substantial. I have two choices according to the map on the wall at Wee Willie’s, both equi-distant to Cape Lookout. I opt for the Sand Lake Point Store, with no input from anyone.
Wrong choice for a day off, but not without it’s rewards. Just beyond the entrance to Cape Lookout I begin a climb with a very steep grade. Thirty minutes later I’m still climbing, at about 4 MPH or so, wondering why I didn’t ask anyone about this road. Too late now. I’m joined by two fully loaded tourers (at least I left three of my panniers at the campsite) on their way to San Francisco. We chat for awhile. They are doing a Seattle-San Francisco tour. This is an ideal tour due to the temperate summer climate in this region as well as the many state parks on the coast the entire way. They soon drop me on the hill when I need to rest.

Finally I am rewarded with the downhill on the other side. Suddenly I come upon the sound of off-road vehicles and the sight of the side of the road turning from forest to sand dunes with scattered stands of trees. Reminiscent of a lunar landscape, the area is being used by people in all many different types of ATVs and dune buggies. I continue on to the store, which turns out to be a feeble excuse for a market - it is a "deli" mostly selling beer to the large number of men in pick-ups wearing moto-cross type apparel. There are women as well, though none seem to be participating in the motor sport activity.

I head back for the long climb after a short stay, arriving back in Cape Lookout an hour or so later. There I meet John, another veteran tourer, who has many tales to spin about his various adventures, including a cross-country tour on Highway 50, the "loneliest road in the world." He is a fanatic about light touring and seems a bit stunned when I tell him that I’m carrying a notebook computer.

Finally, I’m able to enjoy my off-day, reading Edward Abbey on the beach. A glorious sight, the sand and surf, though a bit chilly for swimming. A good day, despite the unexpected workout. To sleep early, ready for the climb back over the mountain tomorrow.

Day 5 - Back Over the Coast Range

Today’s Route: Cape Lookout State Park to Beaverton, OR
Total Miles: 78.6
Miles per Hour: 11.8
Total time Pedaling: 6:37:39
Maximum Speed: 27.7
Total Miles to Date: 181.4

Not much to tell. Basically, a beautiful ride back over the same terrain I covered two days ago. I start early with the anticipation that the trip back will be more difficult due to the longer uphill. It turns out to seem easier, perhaps due to the much earlier start. As I follow the path of the Willamette River, I note the many turn-offs that the state has provided for hikers and anglers. Oregonians take their outdoors activities quite seriously, and Portland residents have the best of both worlds with Mt. Hood, the Pacific, and many rivers all within one and a half hours driving time. I might like to live here someday.

I descend from the 70 degree weather of the mountain into the 95-degree heat of the Portland suburbs to finish my ride. In order to escape the heat, we go to see Independence Day which we unanimously find to be passable schlock with great special effects.

John, Christine and I visit a long-time tape trading friend of mine that night. I met Cori through the internet and have been trading with her for a year or so. It was nice to finally meet her, as well as to get John and Christine together with her.

Day 6 - Into the Gorge
Today’s Route: From Christine and John Fuller’s house through the city of Portland, then on Route 84 East along the Columbia River to Viento State Park.

Total Miles: 71.8
Miles Per Hour: 12.5
Total Time Pedaling: 5:44:07
Max Speed: 29.7
Total Miles to Date: 253.2

Today’s route offers the multiple attractions of the Columbia River, Mt. Hood, and Multnomah Falls. In order to get to a point on Route 84 where bicycling is permitted, I ride the first twenty or so miles through some western suburbs of Portland, into city center, across the Hawthorne Bridge, and finally through the eastern suburbs. Snow-covered Mt. Hood looms over me the entire way. A part of Mt. Hood’s visual power is derived from its solitary status as the only large peak in the area. While other large mountains, such as those in Colorado, seem to have other peaks of similar size nearby, Mt. Hood rises as a solitary 12,000-foot giant among 6,000-foot midgets. I drove up to the Timberline Lodge earlier in the week to in order to glimpse the peak from a closer vantage point. It is no less impressive from this point. The Timberline was used in the Jack Nicholson movie, The Shining. A number of beautiful lakes with adjacent campgrounds at about the 6000-foot level as well.

I now face 50 miles on Route 84. Bicycling along a major highway may seem banal, except if one is pedaling through the beautiful Columbia Gorge. Also, despite the traffic, the highway offers a large shoulder and only gradual hills, two big advantages for cyclists.

If you have ever seen any Oregon travel literature, you have no doubt seen a picture of Multnomah Falls. Multnomah drops off the edge of the Gorge hundreds of feet to a beautiful pool. A must-see.

70 miles through today’s 95-degree heat has taken its toll by the time I reach Viento. No time for a swim, I think I’ll just get the tent up and hit the sack. Tomorrow’s forecast calls for 104- degree temperatures. Have to hit the road early.

Day 7 - Into the Frying Pan
Today’s Route: From Viento State Park, OR on 84 East to Maryhill State Park in Washington, just over the Columbia River from Biggs, OR

Total Miles: 51.5
Miles Per Hour: 12.4
Total Time Pedaling: 4:08:37
Max Speed: 25.6
Total Miles to Date: 304.7

As I ride along the road from Viento the landscape slowly turns from the green forests of the Columbia Gorge to what will eventually turn into the high desert of Eastern Oregon. The Gorge continues, but the hills on either side of the river have no trees upon them. The heat wave is upon me with full force, and I hear later in the day that the high temperature in The Dalles, one of the towns I go through today, is 103 degrees. Fortunately, the humidity is usually at 40% or so in the desert. I continuously take in Gatorade, but am glad I had a short day planned when the town of Biggs appears after 50 miles.

Biggs is a classic example of a type of town that is ubiquitous in the West, but which we do not see in the east due to population density. Biggs exists only to serve highway travelers. The entire commercial district of the town is not much bigger than a highway service area on the New Jersey Turnpike, and its only residents live in trailers and small homes scattered in the surrounding desert. Those residents almost all work in the 24-hour cafes and gas stations that serve the travelers. If towns such as Biggs did not exist we might see stretches of 200 to 300 miles on western highways without any towns or services. Would this be so bad? Perhaps only an inconvenience for the motorist, but for the bicyclist these towns are essential for liquid refueling. One can only carry a limited amount of water on a bicycle, and a stretch of 300 miles without a town would be difficult, to say the least. I imagine that some of the horde of RVs that travel across these highways would stop to give a desperate cyclist water, but I’m not sure I want it to come to that.

I cross the bridge to the Washington side of the Columbia to enter Maryhill State Park. Directed to the beautiful new tent area, I note that the trees near my site have only just been planted and offer only minimal protection from the sun. Not what I need after a day of riding, but its all that is left. Oh well, I’m off to the cool waters of the Columbia for a long swim and the shade trees of the day park area.

Day 8 - My Helmet Melted Today
Today’s Route: From Maryhill State Park, WA back across the Columbia to Boardman, OR.
Total Miles: 62.5
Miles Per Hour: 12.3
Total Time Pedaling: 5:04:14
Maximun Speed: 25.9
Total Miles to Date: 367.2

Yup, that's right. The plastic part that covers the styrofoam now has ripples in it from today's sun. You'll be glad to know I'm still sound of mind. Brutally hot, the worst day yet. At least ten times a day someone says "pretty hot day for a bike ride". Really, do you think?

There are two reactions to my loaded down bicycle, other than no reaction at all. One seems to be a combination of envy and admiration, the other that of people who think I am crazy and look upon me with pity, thinking I must have a screw loose to be making this trip. I note that the former reaction generally comes from fellow travellers, and the latter from townsfolk it seems haven’t been more than 100 miles from home their entire lives.

The hills on my side of the river have disappeared and I am now on the high, flat desert. Only the cars disturb the stillness, as any birds or other wildlife that might exist in this place have sought shelter from the heat. Though I had planned to go eighteen miles further to Umatilla, the heat is causing me to "bonk" (this is ‘90s bicyclists’ lingo for tuckering out, "bonking hard" means verging on a complete loss of physical faculties) early so I stop at the Dodge City Inn at Boardman, another rest-stop area town. I’ll make up the miles tomorrow.

Day 9 - The Umatilla Blues
Today’s Route: From Boardman, OR along 84E to 730 NE to 12E to Walla Walla, WA
Total Miles: 75.2
Miles Per Hour: 12.3
Total Time Pedaling: 6:07:18
Maximum Speed: 26.8
Total Miles to Date: 442.4

Another hot one today, with temperatures over the 100-degree mark. I get an early start to beat the heat, rejoice at finally turning off Route 84 after three short miles.

Irrigon is the first town on Route 730. I assume the name is a play on the name Oregon, as there do indeed seem to be many irrigated fields here. Looks to me as though people are struggling here to make farmland out of what continues to be essentially high desert, albeit with a river running through it.

I had expected to stop in Umatilla for breakfast but, as I pedaled through, the town appears to be lifeless. Everything shut down or very dilapidated. Very reminiscent of a Pennsylvania mill town in which the mill has shut down. I am beginning to despair as there are no diners or, seemingly, any type of commercial establishments. Finally, at the highway junction, there lies one lonely diner. I am thankful, as the next 40 miles are barren of any towns at all.

I slip from the irrigated farmlands back into another gorge, smaller than the Oregon Columbia Gorge. It is still cool out and there is little traffic. The miles go by quickly and I soon rise back out of the gorge into the blazing heat of mid-day.

Continuing on towards Walla Walla, the farmland returns although this land appears to be somewhat more suitable for the purpose. Many signs for Walla Walla sweet onions. Many cattle auction houses as well. Still very few towns, and keeping an adequate Gatorade supply is always a struggle. Most towns have only one store, with the next often twenty or more miles down the road. One would think that prices would be high at these solitary stores as they are the only game in town. They are not, in fact they are rather low. I think there is still a sense of community in these small towns, and ripping off one’s neighbor just won’t do here.

Full heat now, 103 degrees according to the radio in one of the stores. No shade in this almost treeless land. Even with sunscreen, it feels as though my skin is frying. The last ten miles into Walla Walla are hell, as my right achilles (which has bothered me since the third day off the trip) and the bike seat/my butt connection both are giving me fits. Definitely need a hotel tonight.
Finally I arrive at the Comfort Inn, beaten but not broken.

Day 10 - Backing Off
Today’s Route: From Walla Walla, WA on 12E to Dayton, WA
Total Miles: 31.4
Miles Per Hour: 12.7
Total Time Pedaling: 2:28:49
Maximum Speed: 29.4
Total Miles to Date: 473.8

For a number of reasons, having to do with my physical status, the continuing heat, and my need to repair one of my pedals, I decide to shorten my ride today. Mid-morning brings the heat again, and I head down to the local bike shop. Not much business so far today, so they are able to help me immediately. I have clip-in pedals and have lost one of the screws out of the cleat on the bottom of my right shoe. When this happens, the shoe will not release from the pedal unless the tension adjustment screw is released completely. As the pedal is spring-loaded, it is necessary to have a vice and some tools I don’t have in order to reload it after complete release. The screws in my right shoe seem to come loose relatively often, while my left cleat remains intact. They can’t solve that mystery at the bike shop, but they do fix my pedal and tighten up a few other parts.

I’m off at about noon. The mid-day heat doesn’t bother me as I know I only have a short ride today. North of Walla Walla is farm country. Field upon treeless field of wheat in these rolling hills. Don’t blink or you might miss the town of Dixie, where a can of Coke out of the machine at the general store is still fifty cents.

Up a long grade to a 4000-foot (so I’m told) plateau followed by a long downhill (these are some serious fun) into Waitsburg, a quaint little town of 1000 or so people, only a very few of whom are on the street in the mid-afternoon heat. During the obligatory stop for Gatorade, I notice a story in the local paper regarding the passing through town of a couple and their 16-year old son. They are biking across the country from Seattle to Virginia. Front page news with pictures in this small hamlet. The family is taking the same route as I am up to Montana where they will turn south through Wyoming. I am a week behind them.

I had planned to camp at the state park five miles beyond Waitsburg, but it has been closed due to a flood that ravaged this area last winter. I pedal on to Dayton and find shelter at the Weinhard Inn, a Victorian B&B. Very nice, highly recommended should you ever be here.

According to the proprietor the Waitsburg-Dayton area is attempting to build up tourist trade (the farming isn’t so good because the fields have been overused) and there are a few of these refurbished homes, as well as the local victorian-style courthouse. There is also a winery and a ski area. It seems the people are struggling, but I do think the area has a certain pastoral charm that may attract some visitors.

My bones appreciate the easy day, and I retire feeling well.

Day 11 - Into the Hole
Today’s Route: From Dayton, WA on Rt. 12 northeast to Clarkston, WA (just short of Lewiston, ID)
Total Miles: 67.4
Miles Per Hour: 13.5
Total Time Pedaling: 4:58:54
Maximum Speed: 35.8
Total Miles to Date: 541.2

I awaken refreshed from a long night’s sleep on the soft mattress of the late 19th-century antique bed on which I am slept. This Bed and Breakfast was worth the extra cost (still cheap by NY standards) over one of the ubiquitous Mom & Pop fleabags that line the streets of most of these small towns. French toast and Italian sausage for breakfast and I set off for Lewiston,
into what is finally a reasonable day temperature-wise. The mercury will rise above 90 degrees, but that seems relatively cool. As I’m off to an early start, the long uphill out of Dayton is completed in mercifully cool temperatures. The endless wheat fields continue as I rise to a high, windy, beautiful plateau. Six miles of steep downgrade from here, and the rest of the way to Lewiston is all downhill.

I meet Emmett Gallagher on my way down the hill. Emmett is walking his bike up the hill. At first, I think he is a homeless person who has taken a wrong turn out of the city. His clothes haven’t seen a washing machine in weeks (months?) and he has a thick scraggly beard and, to be kind, distinct aroma. His bicycle has at least twice as much stuff as I have on mine. We get to chatting, as almost all passing bicycle tourers do (though this is the first that I have encountered), and Emmett tells me that he works in Arizona as a shuttle bus driver during the winter and tours around the west on his bicycle from April through October. Emmett has lost 45 pounds since April this year. His bicycle is a mountain bike modified into the shape of a Harley-Davidson complete with big mirrors on either side of the handlebars. Among the items he carries are a full-size lawn chair and a metal-detector. He uses the metal detector in city parks and beaches (at state parks) to find change and other treasures that help fund his trip. Collects cans also, so I guess the homeless guess on my part wasn’t too far off. There is no way anyone could pedal all this gear up such a long, 6% grade hill so Emmett always walks up. I don’t tell him he has about five miles to go, but I don’t think he would care anyway. The experience seems to be the thing for Emmett, not the end of the trip or even the end of the day. No mileage or location goals, he just pitches his tent wherever he happens to be when the sun goes down. Something to be said for his approach.

I continue on down the hill to Lewiston, which somebody along the way has described as "being in a hole". The mostly downhill day is very welcome, allowing me to average 13.5 MPH, my best so far. Coming upon the Snake River on the way, I stop just across the bridge from Lewiston at a Super 8 motel (with a pool!).

Day 12 - The Nez Perce
Today’s Route: From Lewiston, ID on 12 east then southeast to Kamiah, ID
Today’s Mileage: 68.4
Miles Per Hour: 14.0
Total Time Pedaling: 4:52:39
Maximum Speed: 29.0
Total Mileage to Date: 609.6

Another glorious day - now the temperature has subsided to the mid-80s. I continue through Lewiston, a non-descript city, on Route 12 into the Nez Perce Indian Reservation.

As with many Indian tribes, the first contact of the Nez Perce with white men was peaceful. In September 1805, they gave supplies to Lewis and Clark and told them about the river route to the Pacific. The settlers that inevitably followed Lewis and Clark subsequently killed many of the Nez Perce and defrauded them of their land. A reservation containing most of their traditional homeland was created in 1855, but the discovery of gold on the reservation led to a series of negotiations between the U.S. government and the Nez Perce that ended with a pro-American, Christian Nez Perce leader basically giving away 90% of the reservation. The Nez Perce leaders and people who did not agree with this treaty remained on the traditional homeland until they were forced off (not without bloodshed) by the U.S. Army in the 1870s. Later frauds perpetrated by the U.S. government in the 1880s led to the loss of 70% of the smaller reservation. The land you see marked as the Nez Perce Reservation on a map of Idaho is predominantly inhabited by whites, though there still continues to be a strong and vibrant Nez Perce community.

I mentioned Lewis and Clark. Some of you may have noticed that I have (unwittingly) followed the exact path that those intrepid explorers and their men followed in a vain search for an unbroken navigable water route to the Pacific from the Missouri River. This route is perfect for the bicyclist as it generally follows river valleys, with only one significant pass to climb, the Lolo Pass at 5500 feet. Even that pass pales in comparison to some of the 10,000 foot passes that cyclists on other routes must climb.

Today’s route follows the Clearwater River which begins at Lewiston where the Snake River bends from Hellgate Canyon west through Washington. Route 12 along the Clearwater is a beautiful ride, gently following the river valley, with few towns. I make remarkably good time at 14 miles per hour, arriving in Kamiah about 6 PM. I set up my tent in the town park hard by the Clearwater, and am shortly deluged by a dust storm that rages for about two hours, forcing me into the tent before dark.

After the storm has abated, I venture up to a local cafe for dinner. The waitress tells me that these storms happen with relative frequency in the summer and only in the part of the river valley in which Kamiah sits. No shower facilities in this park so I go to sleep dirty, but happy with my beautiful ride today.

Day 13 - Up the Lochsa River
Today’s Route: From Kamiah, ID along Route 12 south then east to Wilderness Gateway Campground 19 miles west of Lowell, ID

Total Miles Today: 59.1
Miles Per Hour: 12.3
Total Time Pedaling: 4:48:58
Maximum Speed: 28.0
Total Miles to Date: 668.7

The ride begins at 5:30 AM for me today. I stop for a breakfast at a roadside cafe. The cuisine out here in the west is significantly different from that which I am accustomed to in the east. They aren’t real big on low-fat meals anywhere I have been except for Portland. The breakfast menu at this cafe, as at all others out here, does not list a fruit plate or bagels or even muffins. Biscuits with sausage gravy are a staple. Fortunately, I’m burning 6000+ calories per day so I go for the biscuits and gravy, which I must admit is quite good.

The river valley continues as I turn east onto the Lewis and Clark Highway which runs along the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River from the Lochsa River (from which the Middle Fork flows). I’m out of the Nez Perce Reservation now moving along the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. Mostly a gentle uphill climb now. Many kayakers in these waters. Several trailheads. This is serious outdoor activity area, though there aren’t hordes of people as one might expect. Truly splendid country which I highly recommend for anyone to visit. The ride down Route 12 alone would be worth the trip.

I had planned to try to make it up to Jerry Johnson campground, which is some 45 miles past Lowell, but decide to call it a day at Wilderness Gateway campground. I’m experiencing some problems where the seat meets the rear, not at all uncommon among long-distance cyclers, so I’m very happy to be off the bike.

As I enter my campsite along the Lochsa at least four chipmunks come running out to greet me. I’m sure they would eat right out of my hand if I let them, but I choose not to do so. They almost get to my food anyway. When I come back from the bathroom one is busy chewing apart the zipper on one of my panniers. I shoo him away and lay down on my sleeping pad to take a nap. Another chipmunk (the same one? who knows?) starts nibbling on my toe. This is crazy, these chipmunks are a menace. If I only had my old BB gun I could have a nice dinner. Oh well, I put up my tent to escape the little beasts, hoping they won’t come through that as well. They don’t and I sleep peacefully by the rushing river. A short shower during the night, first precipitation of any kind during my trip.

Day 14 - Over the Lolo Pass
Today's Route: From Wilderness Gateway Campground east on Rt. 12 over the Lolo Pass to Missoula, MT

Total Miles: 94.1
Miles Per Hour: 12.0
Total Time Pedaling: 7:50:58
Maximum Speed: 29.0
Total Mileage to Date: 762.8

Another beautiful day, high in the mid-80s with low humidity. The slowly rising beautiful ride continues. Suddenly my rear wheel is wobbly. Broke a spoke. What to do? Didn’t get extra spokes like I was supposed to before the trip. Don’t know, exactly, how to change one on the rear wheel anyway. I’d had decent luck with the mechanical aspects of this ride up till now. Loosened a spoke on the way back to Portland from the Oregon coast, but that was easily fixed, as was a flat tire in eastern Oregon. The wheel is still ridable, but it is wobbly enough that it is rubbing against the brakes. So I release the brakes, which is fine on the uphill, but I don’t know what I’m going to do on the long 6% downhill after the Lolo Pass. It is possible to make a descent with only front brakes, but certainly not advisable.

After another few miles I meet up with another tourer. Joel is going the opposite way, from Missoula to Boise, about a 6-day tour. He is stopping on the way at some wilderness area in Idaho where there is apparently a stand-off between loggers and environmentalists. Fortunately, Joel doesn’t own a car, so he knows plenty about bikes. He doesn’t have a spoke that will fit my bike, but does know the trick of loosening the two spokes on either side of the broken spoke. This procedure trues up the wheel enough so that you can ride on it. I am happy to be able to have my brakes for the 28 miles of downhill from Lolo Pass to the town of Lolo. Bicyclists seem to stick together and help one another whenever possible. Even bike shop mechanics don’t try to cheat you like many automobile mechanics. The prices charged are ridiculously low, given the amount of time they work on your bike.

Lunch is at the Lochsa Lodge where the river turns into the roadless wilderness and the road begins its steep incline. I meet an older couple from Putnam, CT. Very interested in the trip. They come here every year to enjoy the natural scenery.

Enough procrastinating - have to attack that hill now. The road actually goes downhill for a short while, just to lull me into complacency. Then the climb begins, over 2000 feet in four miles at 6% grade. Four miles per hour or so, slow going, with a stop every mile or so. Finally the top is reached and I rejoice, looking forward to the 28 miles or so all downhill to the town of Lolo. On the way I pass a sign that notes the site of the coldest recorded temperature in the the continental U.S., minus-70 degrees at a local mining camp in 1954. That’s temperature, not wind chill factor.

After Lolo it’s only 11 miles to Missoula, where I quickly check into a motel after my 94-mile day, longest yet.

Day 15 - Rest in Missoula
No Biking Today

I enjoy my hotel stay and sleep in late. After breakfast, I’m off to find a bike shop and the local youth hostel. There turns out to be a bike shop right across the street from the hostel. Friendly folks as usual in the bike shop, they take care of my bike immediately. The hostel doesn’t open until five so I pedal downtown to see what’s what. Funny mix of neo-hippies and redneck cattle rancher types in Missoula. Missoula has become quite the mecca for young progressive folk, much to the consternation, I’m sure, of the established old-timers. Lots of funky little stores, and truly a beautiful setting nestled in the mountains, with great fishing and climbing very close by. Missoula is expected to grow by 24 per cent in the next four years so buy some real estate here now if you have any extra money.

I saw a black person, finally. There are no black people from Portland to Missoula. I saw many Native Americans and some Latinos so there is some diversity, but I literally did not see one black person, not even travelling. No wonder those Aryan Nation people like this part of the country.

I meet Ernie, who runs the youth hostel here. Nice, low-key guy who has been running this hostel for 20 years. Eight bucks for a bed. Homey atmosphere with lots of good reading material. Surprisingly quiet night, considering it is Saturday. There are a few other guests though. A young couple who are riding from Oregon to Chicago on a tandem bicycle with a trailer behind. They’ve been in Missoula for a few days because they had to send their rear wheel back to the manufacturer to be rebuilt. They’re from Amherst, MA, studying landscape architecture at the University of Massachusetts. There’s an Englishman taking some time off between law school and employment. He’s been fishing for a month throughout Montana. An avid fisherman, he tells me that Montana and New Zealand are the best places in the world for trout fishing. Finally, there is a young back-to-the-earth couple looking a homestead in northern Montana.

Everybody has early morning plans tomorrow, so it is an early night.

Day 16 - Up the Blackfoot
Today’s Route: From Missoula, MT east on Route 200 to Lincoln, MT
Today’s Mileage: 80.9
Miles Per Hour:12.2
Actual Time Moving: 6:35:58
Maximum Speed: 35.8
Total Mileage to Date: 843.7

I arise later than I’d hoped, and have to rush to get my gear together by 9 AM, the lock-out time for this hostel. We each have to do a small chore ("it’s tradition!") on top of the eight dollar fee. Still, not a bad deal for indoor lodging, especially if one feels like socializing, rather than zonking in front of the TV- or the laptop.

I’m excited to have a fixed bicycle. Really a drag to have a wobbly ride. Hopefully, it will stay that way. I head out Route 200 towards Lincoln, MT. The idea today is to get as close to the Rogers Pass (my last significant climb of the Rockies!) as possible, leaving the climb itself for tomorrow.

Route 200 follows the Blackfoot River Valley. The road veers away from the river just before Rogers Pass. A beautiful river, world-famous for its trout-fishing, this was the setting for the movie, A River Runs Through It. In Ovando (pop. 50 or so), I’m told by the owner of the one store in town that the worst thing that ever happened to them was the discovery of this area by Robert Redford. Now all the rich folks from California are buying up the ranches and raising everybody’s property taxes. Cattle prices are low and the farmers all say they are barely getting by, though I do notice that they all have shiny new pick-up trucks. I ask if there is a police presence in such a small town. He says, no, none are needed because there isn’t any crime. He attributes the lack of crime to the fact that 90% of the homes have guns in them, with their owners not hesitant to use them in case of a break-in.

I end up in Lincoln, a town of about 1500 people, trying hard to build a tourism industry. Tourism is down somewhat this year. The downturn is attributed to the Freemen and Unabomber situations. The Unabomber’s cabin is fairly close by Lincoln. Camping in the town park with the usual assortment of recreational vehicles.

Day 17 - Done with the Rockies
Today’s Route: From Lincoln, MT on Route 200 East over the Rogers Pass to Great Falls, MT
Today’s Mileage: 88.1
Miles Per Hour: 11.3
Actual Time Moving: 7:44:57
Maximum Speed: 31.7
Total Mileage to Date: 931.8

Up with the sun to face the Rogers Pass. The folks in the Missoula bike shop had told me that this pass isn’t too difficult, with not too steep a slope. My experience confirms their assessment, and I am on top of the pass with little difficulty. As usual, the descent is fun and scary at the same time, 5 miles at 6% grade. Unfortunately, I break yet another spoke on the way down. Good thing there is another bike shop in Great Falls. Once the descent is finished the road goes through a seemingly endless series of undulating hills, passing through wheat fields (the Montana wheat crop brings in 687 million dollars a year, by far the biggest cash crop in the state) the entire way (50 miles) to Simms. No towns for 55 miles from Lincoln to Simms. From Simms, the road mercifully flattens out for the last 30 miles to Great Falls.

I need comfort tonight, not having solved the chafing problem, so I stop at the Days Inn. Too late for the bike shop tonight, so it looks like tomorrow will be an off-day. The day ends with the Olympics on the TV, checking my e-mail, and writing this journal.

Day 18 - Fixing and Resting in Great Falls
No Biking Today

More tired than I thought I was, I rise late and head directly downtown to the bike shop. Great Falls looks like most of these small (40,000 to 60,000 people) Plains/Rockies towns. A downtown with some history and the obligatory river running through it. A decidedly small town rather than city-like feeling.

The folks at the bike shop are nice, as usual, fixing my bike immediately. I get some tips on the road to Havre from the mechanic who used to date a girl up that way. Lots of hills for the first part, but then it flattens out.

Back to the motel for a day and night of not unwelcome sloth and lethargy.

Day 19 - Distant Relatives
Today’s Route: From Great Falls, MT north on Route 87 to Big Sandy, MT
Total Mileage: 80.8
Miles Per Hour: 11.2
Actual Time Moving: 7:10:02
Maximum Speed: 27.0
Total Mileage: 1012.6

Despite the lure of sleeping in on a soft bed, I arise at a reasonably early hour to begin what I hope will be a 109-mile ride to Havre. Alas, it is slow, hilly going from Great Falls to Carter (about 40 miles) and I realize early on that I’m not going to make Havre tonight, particularly because I have planned to stop in Fort Benton to visit Marge and Chuck Chappell. Marge is a first cousin of my father. Her mother was my grandmother’s sister.

Marge and Chuck live in Fort Benton, a town with historical significance as the first settlement in Montana as well as the point where Lewis and Clark ended their travels on the Missouri and began their overland route looking for a navigable waterway to the Pacific. I call from the town of Carter, about fourteen miles up the road from Fort Benton, to explain who I am. Marge seems to recognize my name, but doesn’t recall my father having told her that I was coming through Montana on a bike. Nevertheless, she invites me to stop by the house.

In their late 70s now, Marge and Chuck don’t get out much due to health problems, but they are most gracious hosts, and we sit and chat for a little over an hour. Marge and Chuck have lived all over eastern Montana, as Chuck was a contractor in numerous towns. They moved to Fort Benton 34 years ago. Nice country folk. They, as all others with whom I have spoken in Montana, can’t understand why anyone would want to live in New York City. Too many people and dangerous besides. People out here really value the relative safety they experience. Can’t say as I disagree with them.

I take leave of Marge and Chuck, as I need to get as far as possible up Route 87 today. A few miles and fairly hot today. A tough ride I finally terminate in Big Sandy. This is small town Montana, perhaps 400 souls clustered around the General Mills grain processor (I guess that’s what it is, every town seems to have one out here). Camping tonight in the town rest area, but first a stop at the local convenience store. The cashier has a thick Long Island accent, a very incongruous thing to encounter out here. She has followed her boyfriend, a Montana native, here after he got a job in this town. Does she like Montana living? Well, these small towns are gossipy, already stories going around about her, she says.

A beautiful little park, a bit full of mosquitos, but a seemingly fine place to spend the night, that is until the hidden sprinklers go on in the middle of the night, one of them three feet away from my tent. I endure the deluge for awhile, but fear of the water soaking through the tent drives me to go outside in my shorts to pull my freestanding tent in to the area that gets the least water. A sight I’m glad nobody has on video.

Day 20 - Goin' Down the Road Feelin Bad

Today’s Route: From Big Sandy, MT on Route 87 north to Havre, MT
Today’s Mileage: 37.2
Miles per Hour: 8.0
Actual Time Moving: 4:37:54
Maximum Speed: 25.4
Total Mileage: 1049.8

Absolutely atrocious day. 30 to 40 MPH winds directly in my face (from the North). So much for those prevailing winds from the west. I can’t tell you how frustrating it is to pedal into such a wind. Feels like pedaling underwater or in mud. No fun at all. At least rain never materializes from the big dark cloud to the north.

I quit after four and a half hours of torture, retreating to a hotel room in Havre. The Olympics are on again. This is the night of the Kerri Strug heroics. I think a writer in the next day’s newspaper has it right when he asks if it wouldn’t have been braver for her to not do the vault under that intense pressure, so as not to risk the possibility of ending up walking with a cane when she is forty years old.

Day 21 - Brothers and Sisters of the Road

Today’s Route: From Havre, MT east on Route 2 to Malta, MT
Total Mileage: 90.0
Miles Per Hour: 13.0
Actual Time Moving: 6:54:01
Maximum Speed: 26.1
Total Mileage to Date: 1139.8

My route turns east today, fortunately, for the wind continues from the north at significant speed. The crosswind is somewhat annoying, but doesn’t impede me from making good time on a flat, scenic ride. More cattle and farm country with a few interspersed towns. Route 2 follows the Milk River, which provides important irrigation for the farmland of this arid area.

At Chinook, about twenty miles from Havre, I’m flagged down by two early-twentyish women taking a break from their own bike trip. Daphne and Heather started in Oakland, CA and are headed for Michigan and New Jersey, respectively. Daphne has a sinus infection so they are making slow progress. We chat a little about our physical ailments and the stares from the local folk (they get more than I do, probably due to their multiple body piercings and, well, being women) before we ride a short way together.

After almost three weeks of seeing only a handful of bicyclists on the road, I see three more people besides Daphne and Heather later on today. Couple of college boys on summer break, headed from New Jersey to their home in Berkeley, CA. I tell them there are a couple of folks from their neck of the woods not too far behind me. Not too far behind those guys is a 50-ish man doing a solo perimeter tour of the United States, about a year-long adventure. He raises money in order to do this kind of thing, and has logged over 25,000 touring miles in the past ten years. By the way, for anyone who worries about serial killers and other loonies on the road, this guy has never had any sort of problem in ten years of solo touring.

Malta provides a town campground for $3 per night. Unfortunately, it also doubles as the local driving-around spot for the local youth. They don't stop or bother me (I’m the only one in the campground tonight), but only drive around a little bit, accelerating quickly as they leave the park. Seems like probably the only thing to do around here on a Friday night. It doesn’t keep me awake for long, once I get used to it.

Day 22 - Looks Like Rain
Today’s Route: From Malta, MT east on Route 2 to Glasgow, MT
Today’s Mileage: 72.8
Miles Per Hour: 12.0
Actual Time Moving: 6:03:44
Maximum Speed: 37.0
Total Mileage to Date: 1212.6

The mostly flat terrain of eastern Montana continues. I meet a family - mom and dad with teenage son - pedaling west on their way to Seattle from New Canaan, CT. The usual touring chat. I warn them of the ferocious mosquitoes back up the road about forty miles, in and around Saco. The locals tell me that the area used to be the bottom of the Missouri River, thus a still relatively damp fertile area for the skeeters. These little pests followed me on the bike, not just when I stopped. Actually, stopping was out of the question for about twenty miles, before I finally found a store with some insect repellent. The 16 or so year-old son is rather reticent, so in an effort to elicit more than a grunt, I ask if he is enjoying the trip. He says its okay. This is the kind of thing I would have hated at his age I tell him (my parents will remember taking me, a very reluctant me, on a six-week sailing trip at the age of fourteen or so), but it is a good experience he will enjoy looking back on some day. Of course, I’m sure he would still rather be at home hanging out with his friends.

A black cloud that had been following me for some time overtakes me about five miles outside Glasgow. The bright sunny day suddenly turns into darkness and lightning. Lightning is everywhere and has started fires in the fields. Smoke is now all around me. Quite an apocalyptic scene. There is no point in stopping. No cover from the lightning exists in these wheat fields. My only hope to avoid being rained on, at least, or fried by lightning, at worst, is to outrun the storm. The wind switches to come from the northwest to provide me with some help in outrunning the inevitable rain. Fortunately, there is also a downhill into Glasgow to help. Pedaling furiously I race down the hill, approaching 40 MPH, but the rain overtakes me about a half mile outside of town. I pedal for a while through the downpour, before the appearance of a bridge affords me the opportunity to escape the lightning touching down close by. The ground next to the bridge has turned into mud, so my bike and I become filthy. The raging downpour is gone in 30 minutes, and the sunny day returns.

Time to cut my losses and check my wet and muddy self into a motel, always tonic for a tough day.

Day 23 - My First Century

Today’s Route: From Glasgow, MT east on Route 2 to Culbertson, MT

Today’s Mileage: 105.1
Miles Per Hour: 11.5
Actual Time Moving: 9:06:16
Maximum Speed: 25.0
Total Mileage to Date: 1317.7

A long, uneventful ride today. A few more rolling hills along the Missouri and yet another spoke is broken, thus the slight drop in speed. No fellow tourers on the road today. Back road from Brockton to Culbertson through the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. Quiet, desolate. The Indians don’t seem to live much differently these days from the whites, though they are somewhat worse off financially. Late model pick-ups and small cookie-cutter houses (or trailers) are the norm. I had started late, so the last part of the ride is done under a full moon and brilliant stars, Montana’s famous Big Sky.

Finally got in that 100-mile ride. Not too bad stretched out over a whole day. Camping in the town park in Culbertson. Peaceful, quiet town. North Dakota tomorrow.

Day 24 - Out of Montana
Today’s Route: From Culbertson, MT east on Route 2 to Ray, ND
Today’s Mileage: 77.5
Miles Per Hour: 10.1
Actual Time Moving: 7:36:02
Maximum Speed: 22.6
Total Mileage to Date: 1395.2

Another beautiful, sunny day. The rain gods have been good to me this trip. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the wind gods. The wind hadn’t really been a factor during the whole trip until I reached the plains of Montana, just before turning onto Route 2. Since then I have had a headwind for the most part, or a strong crosswind, which is almost as detrimental to achieving a decent speed.

Today’s wind is a headwind. Coupled with a hilly route and my far out of true wheel, slow going is the order of the day. The difference between 10 MPH and 13 MPH over the course of a day is perhaps two extra hours on the bicycle. The mental effect of the difference has less to do with the extra time than with the feeling of struggling to pedal as opposed to almost effortlessly pedaling. At 13 MPH it is easy to get into a pedaling rhythm, while at 10 MPH there is no feeling of rhythm. Strange that 3 MPH would make such a difference, but it does.

Some eight miles outside of Ray I’m fixing a flat tire on the side of the road when a car pulls up. It is an oil rig worker and his girlfriend in a souped up ‘70s Monte Carlo. The guy says he turned around to see if I needed help after his girlfriend gave him a hard time for passing me without stopping. He is straight out of the ‘70s with the car and mirrored sunglasses (ref. the guy in the intro to VH-1’s 8-track flashback). The girlfriend is stone drunk. She looks like she might have been the prom queen out here in one of these small towns, but now in her early thirties, hard living is accelerating her transition from youthful beauty to a prematurely weathered look.
At any rate, they are certainly friendly enough, offering me a beer while I fix my tire. I decline, indicating that beer-drinking and biking aren’t a great mix. I do accept the offer of a Coke. The woman comes around the side of the car with a glass of ice, bottle of rum, and the Coke. She’s not going to pour me a rum and coke, is she? No, it’s their last Coke and she needs a little bit (very little bit) to top off the glass of rum she pours for herself. I get the rest of the Coke. They roar off into the descending twilight for whatever the night holds for them. I continue on to Ray.
There is a town campground that seems ideal until shortly after dark. At that point, a pick-up truck with three very drunk people pulls up nearby. They stay there, with the pick-up (revved up every 20 minutes or so practically to the point of engine seizure, muffler problem, too) running for hours, almost all night. I determine at an early hour that they do not pose a threat and am able to fall asleep. I can only hope the Canadian family near me in their camper are able to as well.

Day 25 - Hanging with the Locals
Today’s Route: From Ray, ND east on Route 2 to Minot, ND
Today’s Mileage: 40.2 (plus 50-mile hitchhike)
Miles Per Hour: 11.0
Actual Time Moving: 3:39:21
Maximum Speed: 23.2
Total Mileage to Date: 1435.4

On the road early. Have to get to Minot by 6 PM to meet my parents for dinner. They have driven out here from Connecticut to show me the area where my father grew up in Towner, ND, as well as to see some relatives there. Unfortunately, I forgot to change my watch as I moved into Central time from Mountain time so I’m actually an hour later than I thought. At 40 miles down the road I realize that I’m not going to make it by 6 PM. The wind, hills, disabled bike, and time error have defeated me. It’s time to suck it up and take a ride, something I hadn’t wanted to do.

Ten minutes of thumbing produces a dilapidated pick-up truck inhabited by two oil rig workers on their way to a drug test appointment. They do oil rig work up in the northern part of the state when they aren’t farming. They have to get a drug test every time they go back to the oil rig work. These guys are seriously rural folk, complete with unshowered aroma, few teeth and handgun on the front seat of the truck, but they turn out to be very nice to me, going several miles out of their way to drop me off right in front of the bike store in Minot. My father tells me that there is a long tradition of helping both strangers and neighbors in need in North Dakota.

The bike store will fix my bike tomorrow, so I cycle off to the hotel. Dinner with my parents,
they are eager to hear of my adventures. Days Inn lodging for the evening.

Day 26 - Ancestral Roots
Today’s Route: From Minot, ND east on Route 2 to Towner, ND
Today’s Mileage: 45.5
Miles Per Hour: 12.7
Actual Time Moving: 3:34:35
Maximum Speed: 25.3
Total Mileage to Date: 1480.9

My bike is fixed by 12:30 PM. I’m off to Towner, a nice, slightly wind-aided 45-mile ride on pancake flat roads. Eastern North Dakota is very flat, something to which I’m looking forward.
Arrival in Towner (pop. 600+ folks) in time for dinner with my parents at the local cafe, followed by a stop at the relatives so I can meet them, as this is my first visit to Towner. There follows a visit just outside of town to the local cemetery to see our ancestral Van Camp and Graham gravestones. Great-grandparents and great-great grandparents. Franklin Leach came to North Dakota in 1885 when it was still the Dakota territory. From there, there were Leaches in Towner until the 1940s when my father’s parents moved to California. To sleep in the J and A motel , Towner’s six-room motel.

Day 27 - Old Stomping Grounds
No Biking Today
Today is spent driving around to the various locales my father spent his idyllic childhood hunting, fishing, swimming in the river, etc. in this rural wonderland. I take advantage of the day off with a big nap in the afternoon. Dinner with the relatives at the Rugby (Geographical Center of North America!) Supper Club.

Day 28 - Raging at the Wind
Today’s Route: From Towner, ND east on Route 2 to Devil’s Lake, ND
Today’s Mileage: 83.8
Miles Per Hour: 10.6
Actual Time Moving: 7:50:36
Maximum Speed: 19.3
Total Mileage: 1564.7

After breakfast, I take leave of my parents (I will see them in Grand Forks two days hence) for the ride to Shelver’s Grove State Park just past Devil’s Lake. Again, the wind is from the southeast, at 20-25 MPH. Awful riding, a struggle at best, despite the flat road. The campsite is full, but they take pity upon bicycle tourers so I get to camp in the picnic site.

Day 29 - Back with Danielle
Today’s Route: From Devil’s Lake, ND east on Route 2 to Grand Forks, ND
Today’s Mileage: 84.1
Miles Per Hour: 11.2
Actual Time Moving: 7:29:16
Maximum Speed: 25.9
Total Mileage to Date: 1648.8

One note before today’s journal. With regard to physical maladies, all is well. The rear-to-seat problem ended in eastern Montana. If you ever go on a bike tour, expect to have this problem, endemic to people who don’t ride extensively before touring. The prudent person will wear two pairs of bike shorts from the beginning, something I did not do. Live and learn. My cranky achilles tendon seems to have healed itself as well.

The first thirty miles are hell again, but the wind finally abates and, with an early start, I am able to reach Grand Forks by 4 PM. Danielle has already been picked up at the airport by my parents, and has checked into the Super 8. Wonderful to see her again after a month apart.
No rest for the weary - after I get cleaned up we are picked up by my parents and off to see more cousins in Drayton, ND, about 50 miles north of Grand Forks. These are farming folks. Jack and Flora Brown farm about 1600 acres here in the Red River Valley, some of the world’s most fertile farmland. A big dinner with all the folks, including my uncle, visiting from California. Then we inspect the farm. A large building full of an array of gigantic farming equipment. Very impressive.Very wiped out by the end of the night. The decision is made to take a day off tomorrow.

Day 30 - In the Super 8
No Biking Today
Breakfast with Mom and Dad, before they depart for the journey back to Mystic, CT. It has been great to have their company during my ride through North Dakota, as well as to see firsthand a little of the family history. Eating, reading, TV and naps today. That’s what one is supposed to do on Sunday anyway, right?

Day 31 - The Deliverance Bike Shop
Today’s Route: From Grand Forks, ND east on Route 2 to Mentor, MN
Today’s Mileage: 58.4
Miles Per Hour: 11.0
Actual Time Moving: 5:16:07
Maximum Speed: 21.0
Total Mileage to Date: 1707.0

Tough first day. Mechanical problems rise up at every turn. The day begins on a bad note when I burst the tube in Danielle’s rear tire with a gas station air hose. I had been using these air hoses for the whole trip without any problem, but this one seems to be supercharged. Then Danielle’s wheel goes badly out of true almost immediately, necessitating a trip to a local bike shop.

Somewhat delayed, we cross over the border to Minnesota, and are cruising along nicely when, after 15 miles or so, I break another spoke. Danielle has brought Delta spokes from home. These are spokes that can be put onto the back wheel, as a stopgap measure, without taking off the sprocket. The spoke is quite long and I end up screwing it into the rim so far that it pops the innertube. We read the back of the package and note that the spokes are supposed to be cut to length before the you leave home. Wonderful.

So I true up the wheel as much as possible with my spoke wrench, but it is still rubbing against the brakes, so I release the back brakes. Danielle’s wheel has gone out of true again, necessitating the same procedure. We’ve got serious wheel problems, in case you couldn’t tell.

We find out in a rest area that the next bike shop is in Crookston, about 15 miles up the road. This is a surprise to us, as Crookston is a small town and we did not expect to find a shop until Bemidji.

Don’t ever go to a bike shop that is also a saw sharpening service. Radi’s Bicycle Shop and Saw Sharpening Service is off Route 2 by about five miles, but we decide the detour will be worth it. Turns out Radi’s is actually more of a junk store than a bike store. Oh, between the used golf balls and animal heads there are a few bikes, mostly of the used BMX variety, but the whole scene does not exactly instill confidence in us. Radi is, let me find the word, um, rustic? Well, it turns out he doesn’t have the right tool to get the rear sprocket off my bike, but that doesn’t stop him from trying to get it off with a screwdriver for a few heart-stopping moments. Um, no, my bike is already broken enough, thank you. Frustrated, we continue on with released rear brakes and badly out of true back wheels.

Slow going, we reach Mentor, dine at the Dairy Queen and sleep in the tent in the Mentor town park.

Day 32 - Yet Another Bike Shop
Today’s Route: From Mentor, MN east on Route 2 to Bemidji, MN
Today’s Mileage: 68.0
Miles Per Hour: 12.7
Actual Time Moving: 5:19:51
Maximum Speed: 23.8
Total Mileage to Date: 1775.0

Despite the condition of the bicycles, we make relatively good time on the flat roads to Bemedji. Minnesota seems clearly more prosperous than Minnesota and North Dakota, perhaps due to the more fertile farmland. Another glorious day, at least the good luck with the weather continues.

The Home Place bike shop, hard by the shore of Lake Bemedji is our haven at the end of today’s trip. The friendly, knowledgeable people there do their best truing up our wheels, but do tell us that both rims are flawed, probably due to hitting a bump or curb with low tire pressure before the trip started. They also discover that the frame of Danielle’s bike is bent, perhaps due to poor handling on the airplane. They won’t be able to fix that until tomorrow morning, if at all. These guys are hard-core bikers, complete with shaved legs, so we feel comfortable that they know what they are doing. They get a kick out of seeing my slightly melted helmet (due to the 104-degree heat in Oregon).

To sleep in the Edgewater motel. No need to rise early tomorrow, as our bikes won’t be ready until 12:30 PM or so.

Day 33 - Hard-Luck Day II
Today’s Route: From Bemedji, MN east on Route 2 to Grand Rapids, MN
Today’s Mileage: 15.8 (54-mile hitchhike today)
Miles Per Hour: 14.8
Actual Time Moving: 1:04:01
Maximum Speed: 26.1
Total Mileage to Date: 1790.8

We get the bicycles from the shop about 12:30, remembering that they had told us we might have more trouble with the wheels. They’re right, as we are zooming along with a west wind (finally!) Danielle’s tire goes badly out of true again. To add injury to insult, she then runs over another nail (I forgot to tell you about the nail she ran over yesterday) putting a big hole in the side of her rear tire. We replace the tube, but it is bulging through the hole. The trick that sometimes works in this case, putting the wrapper from a Powerbar into the tire over the hole thus preventing the tube from bulging, is attempted, but two miles or so later the tube blows again just as we roll into Cass Lake, a small resort town. The local hardware store doesn’t have a tire in our size, so we are done for today. Time to stick out the thumbs.

Two rides in pick-ups, the first with a local Indian and the second with a couple of guys who run a car-crushing business (in this case, snugly sharing the pick-up bed with a large tractor tire), land us in Grand Rapids just as the local bike shop is closing. We’ve had enough of our damaged wheels, and arrange for the shop to have two new wheels, stronger 36-spoke wheels (as opposed to our 32-spoke wheels), overnighted to Grand Rapids. This development will cost us a day on the road, but will be well worth it.

Day 34 - Rest in Grand Rapids
No Biking Today

We resist any urge we may have had to visit the local Judy Garland (she was born here) museum and spend the day lounging at the Day’s Inn, hoping that Fed Ex will get our tires here tomorrow.

Day 35 - Danielle Takes a Fall
Today’s Route: From Grand Rapids, MN east on Route 2 then south on Route 33 to Jay Cooke State Park, just south of Duluth, MN near Carlton, MN
Today’s Mileage: 79.0
Miles Per Hour: 13.9
Actual Time Moving: 5:39:23
Maximum Speed: 26.8
Total Mileage to Date: 1869.8

The wheels arrive and we are leaving Grand Rapids with a nice west wind by 12:30. The wheels work perfectly and we move quickly along through the country on Route 2 before eventually turning onto 33 which becomes busier as we move closer to Duluth. We won’t go through Duluth, but must skirt it to the west, through a large suburb, Cloquet.

We are moving along with Danielle taking a rare lead. I can see ahead that the paved shoulder is going to turn into dirt and gravel about 20 feet ahead. She does, but is afraid to turn onto the now busy road without sufficient time to check for cars. She’ll have to continue on the shoulder. You can do it, it seems fairly hard-packed. Uh-oh, small ditch from run-off water ahead. Jump it, jump it. The telepathy doesn’t work. Over she goes. A badly skinned elbow and sore arm, tears and boo-boo faces. But, being a trooper, she gets right back on the bike (well, after a few minutes of consoling) and we continue on to Jay Cooke State Park along the Superior River. There aren’t any campsites left, but I plead the case that we are on bikes, it is getting late, blah, blah, blah, and lo and behold there is a cancellation.

Another beautiful, star-filled, midwestern night. Great ride today, other than Danielle’s fall.

Day 36 - County Roads
Today’s Route: From Jay Cooke State Park east on Route 105 across the St. Louis River into Superior, WI, then south on Route A to Route B. East on Route B to Bois Boile campground near Brule, WI

Today’s Mileage: 66.5
Miles Per Hour: 11.9
Actual Time Moving: 5:35:17
Maximum Speed: 26.7
Total Mileage to Date: 1936.3

Up early, as is the norm when camping. We ride east along the raging Superior River, a beautiful back-country ride. Then an old bridge across the St. Louis River into Superior, WI. A side trip to a bike shop in Superior takes a little longer than expected. Our American Allyn wrench set has started to strip our the screws on our bike a little. We are told that’s because they are foreign bikes, thus we need the metric Allyn wrenches.

Out of the city onto Wisconsin county roads. This is deep country, big fishing area. Nice to get off of Route 2, with its relatively high traffic volume. Almost no traffic on these roads, passing through beautiful farmers’ fields of sunflowers, among other bucolic delights. Mostly flat, a few hills here and there. Dinner (whitefish from Lake Superior!) at a nice bed and breakfast overlooking a lake.

It’s a weekend night so the campsite is full, but we talk the ranger into letting us freecamp. To sleep next to the mellifluous sounds of the Brule River.

Day 37 - Land of No ATMs
Today’s Route: From Brule, WI east on Route 2, southeast on county roads to 77 east ending in Ironwood, MI
Today’s Mileage: 91.7
Miles Per Hour: 11.7
Actual Time Moving: 7:47:00
Maximum Speed: 28.3
Total Mileage to Date: 2028.0

We neglected to go to the ATM, so are short on cash. We scrape together enough for breakfast, figuring we will run into an ATM soon enough. We take a shortcut down Route 2, congratulating ourselves for not having continued on it from Minnesota (there are no shoulders on it in Wisconsin) before we head back onto beautiful back county roads headed for our lunch destination, the relatively large town of Mellen. We had found it odd that some of the towns we went through yesterday did not have ATMs.

After another truly glorious ride through Wisconsin farmland, we arrive in Mellen (population 1000) only to find no ATM there either. The residents of these towns seem as perplexed as we are about why Wisconsin has so few cash machines. The restaurants don’t take a Visa either, so we will have to pedal the last 28 miles to Ironwood ravenously hungry.

We roll into Ironwood about 8 PM, going through the downtown first. Yet another dismal, dying downtown. All the going businesses are out on Route 2. We decide to stay at the Super 8, which happens to be next to the Pizza Hut. A large pizza is quickly consumed, our first real sustenance since breakfast, 83 miles ago.

Day 38- The Upper Peninsula
Today’s Route: From Ironwood, MI east on Route 2, then Route 28 to Bruce Crossing, MI
Today’s Mileage: 52.8
Miles Per Hour: 14.3
Actual Time Moving: 3:41:10
Maximum Speed: 29.0
Total Mileage to Date: 2080.8

Up late today, enjoying the comforts of the motel. Through a couple of towns on Route 2 before we veer off northeast on 28 towards Lake Superior. Beautiful pine forests on 28, a flat, fast road with good shoulders and not too much traffic. Sparsely spaced, very small towns, much wilderness. Great riding.

Our ride is cut short somewhat by more chafing problems for Danielle, and we camp at the town park in the relatively large town (i.e., it has a restaurant) of Bruce Crossing.

Day 39 - Night Riding
Today’s Route: From Bruce Crossing, MI east on Route 28 to Marquette, MI

Today’s Mileage: 90.5
Miles Per Hour: 12.2
Actual Time Moving: 7:25:45
Maximum Speed: 28.0
Total Mileage to Date: 2171.3

We leave Bruce Crossing a little later than we hoped, but the riding continues to be wonderful. A little more hilly today. Towns and restaurants are few and far between so we are very hungry by the time we get to Ishpeming, about ten miles away from our goal of Marquette. We stop for dinner, and decide to make it a leisurely meal and quit here. Darkness is descending as we find that the hotel we hope to stay in is full. In order to get a room here in Ishpeming we would have to backtrack three or four miles. Nope.

On to Nauganee, a fairly large town a couple miles up the road. Guess it’s not a vacation spot because there are no hotels here or campgrounds. Now it is getting really dark, but, with little other choice, we push on to Marquette. Bone-tired, we spy the welcome cheesy neon motel sign. Thirty bucks, not bad.

Day 40 - Downpour
Today’s Route: From Marquette, MI east on Route 28 to Sand River, MI
Today’s Mileage: 22.4
Miles Per Hour:14.0
Actual Time Moving: 1:35:39
Maximum Speed: 30.5
Total Mileage to Date: 2193.7

Late start, about 10 AM. 90 miles planned for today. We take the bypass around Marquette and turn on to Route 28, skirting the southern shore of Lake Superior. A cold, cloudy day turns to steady drizzle as we pull up to a rest area overlooking the lake. The wind is picking up now and we are clearly going to have some rain. We wait out the rain under shelter, although the wind is causing us to get quite cold.

The rain lets up after 45 minutes or so and we are back on the bikes. Unfortunately the storm is moving in the same direction we are and we run right into it again. We continue to pedal, about ten miles or so, through a steadily increasing downpour. I start to get really worried about the computer in my pannier, especially since we don’t expect a town for another twelve miles or so. Since I haven’t had any rain other than the short deluge in Montana, I’m not really sure if the panniers are waterproof.

Unexpected motel sign ahead. We are soaked to the bone, so it takes about half a second to decide to pull over. Simple accomodations, right on Lake Superior. Had we continued to ride, we would have continued along with the storm, so there was no point in going on. Unfortunately, much of our stuff is soaked (but not the computer I’m relieved to find) and the motel doesn’t have a dryer.

Part of another day to kill, and we’ll try again tomorrow.

Day 41 - More Rain
Today’s Route: From Sand River, MI east on Route 28 to Munising, MI
My cyclometer seems to have been fouled up by the deluge, so you will only get the basics (from Danielle’s cyclometer) for awhile:
Today’s Mileage: 30.0
Total Mileage to Date: 2223.7

Another rainy day today. We give it a try and get to Munising, but more rain and our need to stop and dry off almost everything we have with us cuts the day short. The ride along the southern shore of Lake Superior is beautiful despite the rain.

Day 42 - Flat and Fast
Today’s Route: From Munising, MI east on Route 28 to Strongs, MI
Today’s Mileage: 82.8
Total Mileage to Date: 2306.5

The rain is gone, and we are flying down Route 28. A nice ride, through small towns, with long stretched of no towns at all. My cyclometer continues not to function. I’m not sure whether rain got into it during the downpour, or whether the battery is dead.

We check into a small-town motel that does not have any telephones in the rooms. I make the very odd request of using the owners’ telephone in order to send e-mail to everyone. The young couple is baffled, and a little leery I think, but I assure them that it is okay. I also tell them that they may be getting more of these requests as more people start carrying lap-tops. I’m not sure either of them has seen a computer, let alone a laptop, so it is difficult I think for them to visualize armies of vacationing common folk wired to the web.

Nothing else of note today. Just a great ride through beautiful country. Beats working!

Day 43 - Into Canada
Today’s Route: From Strongs, MI east on Route 28 to north on I-75, over the international bridge into Canada at Sault Ste. Marie, then east on Route 17 to Thessalon, ONT.
Today’s Mileage: 91.9
Total Mileage: 2398.4

Early to rise this morning with a long ride ahead. After an immediate breakfast, we start the fairly flat route that takes us by Lake Superior again before arriving in Sault Ste. Marie, MI. There is a seemingly endless series of unleashed dogs on the back-country road from the lake over to the highway that parallels I-78, our route to the bridge over to Canada. We view most of them as unwitting training partners. The sprinting speed one can attain when being chased by a dog is impressive. However, one surprises me from behind a tree, and I swerve, inexplicably, towards the beast. This maneuver takes me into the bumpy, gravel shoulder of the road, resulting in my closest, by far, brush with falling. A few rapid heartbeats later I’m back on the road and the dog has given up.

The bridge crossing to Canada is a very dicey affair as the bridge is long with no shoulder, and there are a number of semis that pass by. Customs on the Canadian side is a breeze. All they need to know is citizenship and date of birth. A stop at the nice tourist center on the other side to change money and get a map of Ontario.

It is an easy trip through Sault Ste. Marie, ONT, until we reach the sign that indicates there will be construction for the next 20 kilometers. The route includes major traffic and a badly ripped up road. As there is no alternative route, we deal with the situation. A passing motorist adds to the bad situation by tossing a beer can at Danielle. He misses - Canadians never have been good baseball players.

A stop for lunch in the middle of all the construction reveals the financial pros and cons of travel in Canada. While the U.S. dollar is very strong against the Canadian dollar (67 cents U.S. = 1.00 Canadian), prices for most items are similar to those in the States, with a few exceptions such as gasoline and milk. Taxes, however, eat up some of that difference, with restaurant taxes, at 15%, especially loathsome. Another financial note, the Canadian government is making the switch for one and two dollar bills to coins for those denominations. The one dollar coins are known as loonies, for the bird depicted on them, and the two dollar coins are known as twonies. Don’t start a campaign to make this switch here in the U.S. All that change in one’s pocket is a pain.

Even after the construction ends, Route 17 is the least bike-friendly road we have experienced. A small shoulder or no shoulder at all, with cars and many trucks (this is the only route from Sudbury to Sault Ste. Marie) zooming close by at 70 miles per hour. A stressful day mercifully ends at a beautiful campground on the shores of Lake Huron.

Day 44 - Along Lake Huron
Today’s Route: From Thessalon, ONT east on Route 17 to Blind River, ONT
My cyclometer seems to have dried out!
Today’s Mileage: 37.5
Miles Per Hour: 12.8
Maximum Speed: 27.1
Actual Time Moving: 2:55:50
Total Mileage to Date: 2435.9

Route 17 continues along the northern shore of Lake Huron. A beautiful, mostly flat ride, unfortunately marred by continued lack of a decent road shoulder and quite a few large trucks. At Blind River we make the decision to attempt to hire a boat to take us over to Manitoulin Island, our eventual destination anyway. By getting a boat we will be able to cut off about 80 miles of riding, 60 of it on this horrific road.

We stop at the Blind River Marina. The teenage dockworkers say there are usually boats going over to Manitoulin, but today seems to be a slow day. There is someone who might take us over, but he is out right now. A call on the marine radio fails to raise him so we relax for three hours or so. As he doesn’t appear by 5:30 PM, we decide to get a motel and hope that he can take us in the morning. Of course, he arrives ten minutes after we leave, but we’ve already secured a room, so decide to leave for Manitoulin early in the morning.

Day 45 - Across Lake Huron
Today’s Route: From Blind River by powerboat to Gore Bay on Manitoulin Island. By bicycle to South Baymouth, then by ferry to Tobermory, ONT.

Today’s Mileage: 51.7
Miles Per Hour:10.4
Actual Time Moving: 4:56:25
Maximum Speed: 23.7
Total Mileage to Date: 2487.6

We load up the powerboat by 7 AM. It is a good-sized vessel (burns 20 gallons of fuel per hour), for sale by owner at $48,000. He’s looking for a bigger boat in order to accomodate his 10-year old son and teenage daughter who have reached the age where sleeping in the same bunk is no longer tenable. Our captain has been laid off by the Ontario Department of Highway and his wife, who will accompany us to Gore Bay, Manitoulin Island, is a social worker with a day off.
Seas are slightly choppy, but we are able to average about 25 miles per hour for most of the trip without too much bouncing around. We engage in conversation with captain’s wife, while captain is more interested in showing me his GPF (that’s Global Position Finder, I think) gadget which tells us where we are, how much time is left on the trip, most direct course, etc. Arrival in Gore Bay, a quaint little Nantucket-ish town, clearly geared towards tourists, but in not in a tacky manner. Breakfast at the local overpriced cafe, and we are off on our relatively short ride to the ferry at South Baymouth.

Our ride today proves to be one of the most scenic of our trip. Manitoulin Island is the largest freshwater island in the world.

Day 46 - Rain Again
No Biking Today

The rain started last night and continues all day. As we have the whole day to kill, we bail out from the campground to the motel nearby. 70 bucks Canadian ( about $45 US) for a room with no phone, air conditioning, or remote control for the TV. Must be a tourist area.

Day 47 - Wrong Turn
Today’s Route: From Tobermory, ONT south on Route 6 to Dornoch, ONT
Today’s Mileage: 85.6
Miles Per Hour: 12.6
Actual Time Moving: 6:46:43
Maximum Speed: 27.9
Total Mileage to Date: 2573.2

We arise very early in order to get a good start on a long day of cycling. Route 6 on the Bruce Peninsula is a great road for cycling. Nice flat road with a good sized shoulder. We knock off 20 miles at a very fast pace, before a break for a diner breakfast. A little further down the road my pedals start clicking and slipping. Uh oh. I am able to keep going, however. We reach Owen Sound by noontime and proceed to spend the next three or four hours having the bicycle repaired. Apparently the crank is worn out, and it is a good thing we aren't in the middle of nowhere, because once the crank breaks completely you are done until the next bicycle shop.

Once the bike is fixed we are on our way out of town, ostensibly headed towards a camping area on the southern coast of Lake Ontario on our way to go north and east of Lake Erie. As afternoon turns into evening, I notice that the names of the towns we are passing through do not match the names of the towns on my directions. A quick look at the map indicates that we took a wrong turn coming out of Owen Sound, and we are heading south on Route 6 rather than East on Route 6. So a quick examination of the map indicates that now our best bet is to go south to skirt the western shore of Lake Erie. This way we'll get to go by Niagara Falls anyway, although it will be a little longer.

As we hadn't planned to go this way, I have no idea about lodging, and the area is very rural. There is a campsite located in the map about ten miles past Dornoch, where we stop after 85 miles in what has become a very hot day/evening. Danielle is unhappy from my poor navigation and general weariness after 85 miles, we ask the general store clerk about the lodging situation here in town. Nothing here she says, and she thinks the campsite might be closed down. So we wearily get on our bikes to look for a field to camp in. Literally 200 yards up the road we are shocked by the site of a nice motel. We don't know why the person in the store didn't tell us about it, but we are very happy it is here. This part of Ontario, by the way, is very beautiful and lightly travelled, thus a joy to cycle through.

Day 48 - Asthma Problems
Today’s Route: From Dornoch, ONT on Route 6 South to Mount Forest, ONT
Today’s Mileage: 24.9
Miles Per Hour: 10.5
Actual Time Moving: 2:22:55
Maximum Speed: 24.0
Total Mileage to Date: 2598.1

The day dawns extremely hot and muggy, probably the worst day weather-wise we have had since Danielle has been on the trip. Lots of rolling hills in this part of Ontario. Danielle's exercise-induced asthma is particularly troublesome in hilly areas, and today it gets the best of her. We are forced to quit early, and take refuge in another motel.

Day 49 - The Longest Ride
Today’s Route: From Mount Forest, ONT on Route 6 South, then on country roads after Freelton, ONT to Bismark, ONT

Today’s Mileage: 108.5
Miles Per Hour: 13.6
Actual Time Moving: 7:58:34
Maximum Speed: 27.2
Total Mileage to Date: 2706.6

Less humid today. We get a good early start and the beginning of the day is mostly downhill from Mount Forest. Some difficulty finding accomodations, either camping or hotels on this route, and day turns into night and we are still pedalling. Finally, we stop at a house with a sign out front that says "The Milk House". I think it is a Bed & Breakfast, but it turns out to be a dairy farm. In any event, we ask the gentleman who answers the door if we can camp in this yard. He is happy to let us do so, and we wearily set up the tent after 108.5 miles, our longest day yet.

The next morning we receive a visit from the gentlemen's wife, who offers us breakfast (we decline as we need to get going) and apologizes for him not having invited us to stay inside! She got home from work late, so was not there when we arrived.

Day 50 - Back in the USA
Today’s Route: From Bismark, ONT on Route 53 to Niagara Falls, ONT, then down the Niagara Parkway, and over the Peace Bridge into Buffalo, NY out to the airport. Car ride on NYS Thruway to Syracuse Airport, then on country roads to Karen Leach’s house.
My cyclometer is broken again.
Today’s Mileage: 58.8 (biking mileage only)
Total Mileage to Date: 2765.4

Today we go back through customs into the U.S., going over the Peace Bridge. We join a group of cyclists out for a ride, but they are too fast for us. We navigate through the urban streets of Buffalo, looking for the airport, since we decided that we need to rent a car, since we are not going to make to Connecticut for Danielle to get back to work, and for a visit from her parents.

We finally find the airport, rent a vehicle, and drive to Syracuse airport where we will meet my sister. I am disappointed about this and previous non-riding legs, but I suppose less than 200 miles by vehicle out of 3000+ total isn't too bad.

Day 51 - Hills of Route 20
Today’s Route: From Munnsville, NY east on Route 20 to Leesville, NY
Today’s Mileage: 48.8
Total Mileage to Date: 2814.2

We spend a blissful night at my sister's house, followed by a leisurely breakfast and morning conversation. Finally, it is time to hit the road, and we do so about noon. We decide beforehand to split up the ride to Albany into two days, since it would be a very long day to get there in one. Rt. 20 is a nice ride, but is very up and down, so quite tiring.. To sleep in a campground.


Day 52 - More Hills
Today’s Route: From Leesville, NY east on Route 20, then north on Route 7 to Niskayuna, NY
Today’s Mileage: 52.1
Total Mileage to Date: 2866.3

More hills of Rt. 20, before a long downhill off the mountain ridge to my brother's house in Schenectady.

Day 53 - Rest
No Biking Today

We get a nice rest today and catch up with my brother and his family. It is fun to see our two year-old twin niece and nephew.

Day 54 - Eastern New York
Today’s Route: From Niskayuna, NY east on Route 7 across the Hudson River to Troy, NY. Then south on Route 4 to east on Route 20 to south on Route 66 to east on Route 71 to Great Barrington, MA.

Today’s Mileage: 70.9
Miles Per Hour: 11.8
Actual Time Moving: 5:58:40
Maximum Speed: 30.8
Total Mileage to Date: 2937.2

Another gorgeous ride today through hilly country, ending up in a hotel in Great Barrington.

Day 55 - Almost there
Today’s Route: From Great Barrington, MA southeast through many different roads to Rocky Hill, CT.
Today’s Mileage: 68.2
Miles Per Hour: 12.2
Actual Time Moving: 5:34:21
Maximum Speed: 36.1
Total Mileage to Date: 3005.4

Another beautiful ride. Northwestern Connecticut is very nice country. Another hotel night - we are getting soft as the end of our trip approaches.

Day 56 - Arrival
Today’s Route: From Rocky Hill, CT over the Connecticut River by ferry. Then south on Route 17 to east on 66, then Route 16 to Colchester. South on various roads to I-95 bridge in New London, CT. Rt. 184 east to Route 27 South to Route 1 east in Mystic, CT. End at my parents’ house on Mason’s Island.

Today’s Mileage: 61.9
Miles Per Hour: 11.6
Actual Time Moving: 5:18:30
Maximum Speed: 33.5
Total Mileage: 3067.3

We start the day with a trip over the Connecticut River on a small ferry, then onto Mystic over hilly road. A funny thing happens at a convenience store. We are paying for something, and the young female clerk asks us what we are doing, since we have bike shorts, helmets, shoes, etc. I tell here that we are on the last day of a 3000 mile trip. She asks why on earth would we do such a thing, are we crazy? The guy behind us in line laughs, "She's a convenience store clerk, and she's asking if you are crazy for taking a bike trip?" Funny moment.

We finally arrive in Mystic, and my parents are waiting with a banner welcoming us home. We are very happy to make it, but it is a little bittersweet at least for me, as arrival means going back to work/graduate school, leaving the wonderful freedom of life on the road behind. I am ready to get back on the bike the next day, and start another trip, but that's not going to happen. I do resolve to take a similar trip again some day, perhaps a perimeter tour of the U.S.

Totals Days Cycling: 47
Average Miles Per Day: 65.25

OVERALL SUMMARY
Date Mileage MPH Total Time Moving Max Speed Cumulative Mileage
7/5 80.7 11.8 6:48:28 28.3 80.7
7/6 22.1 10.1 2:11:24 29.0 102.8
7/7 78.6 11.8 6:37:39 27.7 181.4
7/11 71.8 12.5 5:44:07 29.7 253.2
7/12 51.5 12.4 4:08:37 25.6 304.7
7/13 62.5 12.3 5:04:14 25.9 367.2
7/14 75.2 12.3 6:07:18 26.8 442.4
7/15 31.4 12.7 2:28:49 29.4 473.8
7/16 67.4 13.5 4:58:54 35.8 541.2
7/17 68.4 14.0 4:52:39 29.0 609.6
7/18 59.1 12.3 4:48:58 28.0 668.7
7/19 94.1 12.0 7:50:58 29.0 762.8
7/21 80.9 12.2 6:35:58 35.8 843.7
7/22 88.1 11.3 7:44:57 31.7 931.8
7/24 80.8 11.2 7:10:02 27.0 1012.6
7/25 37.2 8.0 4:37:54 25.4 1049.8
7/26 90.0 13.0 6:54:01 26.1 1139.8
7/27 72.8 12.0 6:03:44 37.0 1212.6
7/28 105.1 11.5 9:06:16 25.0 1317.7
7/29 77.5 10.1 7:36:02 22.6 1395.2
7/30 40.2 11.0 3:39:21 23.2 1435.4
7/31 45.5 12.7 3:34:35 25.3 1480.9
8/2 83.8 10.6 7:50:36 19.3 1564.7
8/3 84.1 11.2 7:29:16 25.9 1648.8
8/5 58.4 11.0 5:16:07 21.0 1707.0
8/6 68.0 12.7 5:19:51 23.8 1775.0
8/7 15.8 14.8 1:04:01 26.1 1790.8
8/9 79.0 13.9 5:39:23 26.8 1869.8
8/10 66.5 11.9 5:35:17 26.7 1936.3
8/11 91.7 11.7 7:47:00 28.3 2028.0
8/12 52.814.3 3:41:10 29.0 2080.8
8/13 90.512.2 7:25:45 28.0 2171.3
8/14 22.4 14.0 1:35:39 30.5 2193.7
8/15 30.0 2223.7
8/16 82.8 2306.5
8/17 91.9 2398.4
8/18 37.5 12.8 2:55:50 27.1 2435.9
8/19 51.7 10.4 4:56:25 23.7 2487.6
8/21 85.6 12.6 6:46:43 27.9 2573.2
8/22 24.9 10.5 2:22:55 24.0 2598.1
8/23 108.5 13.6 7:58:34 27.2 2706.6
8/24 58.8 2765.4
8/25 48.8 2814.2
8/26 52.1 2866.3
8/28 70.9 11.8 5:58:40 30.8 2937.2
8/29 68.2 12.2 5:34:21 36.1 3005.4
8/30 61.9 11.6 5:18:30 33.5 3067.3

LESSONS LEARNED - you can e-mail me with questions at roadrunnerecuador@yahoo.com
1) Start boxing up your bike two days before you fly.
2) If Danielle and I were to do another trip, we would get a tandem bicycle. It is very difficult psychologically for both people if one is constantly having to hold back while the other is constantly trying to catch up.
3) Schedule one or two days off per week. I had the idea that I was going to bike for 50 days straight, with just one 2 day break in the middle. That didn't happen due to necessary bike repairs, but were I to do it again, I would schedule days off in advance. The body needs rest, and there will be places you want to explore.
4) Don't bother cycling in the rain unless you are a masochist and enjoy wearing damp clothes for three days.
5) If you take a laptop and want to e-mail your journal home, get a cellular modem. Many cheaper hotels are difficult to dial from directly.
6) If things go poorly some day, just remember - you could be in an office somewhere working.
7) Make sure you have the right equipment. By simply having a rear wheel 4 spokes larger in size from the beginning this trip would have been much more hassle-free.
8) Be sure to eat as much as you can. You need the fuel, because you are burning 5000+ calories per day. I gorged at almost every meal and still never felt full, and lost 22 pounds.
9) Don't push the buttons on your cyclometer while it is raining. It will get wet inside and not work for a few days until it drys out.